In the wake of John Bruno’s report from the Galapagos, I bring you happier news from the Equatorial Pacific, nearly five thousand miles farther west: there are still wildernesses on Earth.
I was lucky enough to spend May and June in the engine room of a sailboat heading south from Honolulu, as crew with the Sea Education Association. After crossing more than a thousand miles on the open ocean, we rested for a few days in the lagoon at Palmyra Atoll, then sailed for Kingman Reef, a sandspit in the middle of an empty horizon. It’s a trap for unsuspecting ships, and has only ever been reached by a handful of human visitors. Below the surface are some of Earth’s most pristine coral reefs, home to more sharks than I’ve ever seen, and other absolutely astounding wildlife…
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photos by Zena Cardman, Mike Lipnick, and Caleb Kruse
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